My Day-Trip from Sevilla to Córdoba
SEPT 23, 2019
We slept in. The previous few days had wiped us out. And, what did Córdoba have to offer us that was more valuable than sleep? We didn't know. So, we lazily got up and about, ate breakfast out on our (still perfectly silent at 10AM) veranda in Sevilla, and got farewell coffees & caneles at Parcería. Then, we started our drive to Córdoba: top-down, no stress, & no schedule.
We arrived in town at about 1 PM, parked, and walked straight to the Mesquita-Catedral. There’s a large courtyard called Patio de los Naranjos and a bell tower inside the walls of the Mesquita, where we bought tickets for $11/p.
We entered the worship space and tried to follow Rick Steves’ audio tour from his Spain e-book. But, it was difficult to understand the directions. It was very dark inside — no windows, only a few skylights — and a lot of Catholic memorabilia (like floats with saints). On one wall of the building numerous chapels, shrines, and tombs had been added more recently (like where you might light a candle to a saint).
Another tourist struck up a conversation with Gabe about how much the place had changed since her last visit. She was distraught at how cluttered it had become with all the Catholic additions. This conundrum speaks to the complicated religious history of Southern Spain (how they flip flopped back and forth between Muslim and Christian rulers).
There was a sense of respect for the Arab craftsmanship (much of the Mosque was preserved — thankfully), but also a clear desire to conquer. (The Christians couldn’t just build a cathedral on its own plot of land, they had to sequester the mosque.)
The Catholics went so far as to build a full-blown, high-ceilinged cathedral in the center of the mosque (removing quite a few original arches to do so). This makes the middle of the Mesquita very bright from natural light, which is a disorienting and stark contrast to the remainder of the somber mosque. They also added a dazzling white, Baroque-style chapel (dome and all), with all sorts of cherubs and gaudy gold statues. Such an odd contrast to the Arab sense of decoration, which is so much more beautiful IMO: the arches, the Mihrab, the intricate details on everything, the rich colors and shapes — all so very pleasing to the eye.
Andalucia.com states: “When the city was reconquered by the Christians in 1236, the new rulers of the city were so awed by [the Mesquita’s] beauty that they left it standing, building their cathedral in the midst of its rows of arches and columns, and creating the extraordinary church-mosque we see today.”
It’s a curious place, for sure. It feels like walking through history, with the clash between people groups and religions palpable.
After an hour or so, we reentered the city with food on the brain. Our destination was Bar Santos for the famous extra tall tortilla. They really crank those things out! We got a slice to share and a most refreshing cerveza.
We walked across Puente Romano de Córdoba (a.k.a. the bridge of Volantis). We found calleja de las flores (and all the tourists!): a pretty little plaza with hanging flower pots and boutique stores. We saw the Jewish Quarter and the old wall too — all very pretty.
For 2nd lunch, we made our way to the modern and fancy Mercado Victoria. We tried some salmorejo (delicious, cold tomato soup), an open-faced sandwich with meat and cheese, and a couple of juices.
Next, we stumbled upon a traveling art exhibition called “las meninas,” we tried some Pastel de Cordobes (pastry made with spaghetti squash, not my fave), saw some Roman ruins, and ended our day at Salon de Te.
This tea shop was so serene - a great place to take a load off and charge our phones! They had plants all around (technically inside a patio), soothing music, and lots of cozy little corners to lounge in.
Their menu had a little poetic invitation on the cover: “Upon entering the Tea Room, a trip begins. Serve the Tea, and the adventure will come to your lips. The Yin and the Yang = The empty and the full. The cover symbolizes Heaven, the Bowl, the Man; the Saucer, the Earth. Participate in the ‘Art Ceremony of Tea Tasting.’”
We ordered a Moroccan tea (green tea with mint leaves, lightly sweetened) and a cardamom coffee just for kicks. Gabe didn't like his coffee, but the tea was lovely! Before we drove home, we did a bit of tea shopping for our moms. Lots of interesting selections of teas and spices. I wish we would have bought more.
We loved our 5 days of adventures in Andalucía (the South of Spain)! Highly recommend! Next up: the Basque Country!
