My First Day in Iceland

September 6, 2021 | Day One

Before we knew it, the pilot was announcing local time and weather for Reykjavik, Iceland!

We landed a bit early, so we meandered unhurried to get our bag, through customs, to pick out a SIM card (unlimited data with NOVA), and purchase cups of joe and juice from Joe & the Juice. The airport was small, so everything was easy to find, including the front desk where we were meant to meet our ride to the rental car company. Car pick-up went smoothly, so we were on the road with lots of time to spare before our Blue Lagoon reservation. Check. Check. And check.

Breakfast?

I had not planned any place in particular, so I did a quick search on the fly from the backseat of our newly acquired Toyota Yaris. Hja Hollu had good reviews and was very near the Blue Lagoon, so it seemed like a winner! Re-energized with a little coffee in our systems and an Icelandic address in the GPS, we set off to our first destination.

To our delight, the spot was cozy, filled with locals (and tourists, of course), and the food, service, and presentation were terrific! Gabe and I shared a breakfast platter of bacon and eggs on top of a dense homemade bread with avocado and basil oil (a fun take on avocado toast!), with a picturesque glass of skyr with fruit, syrup, and granola, and little white ceramic cups of refillable coffee included! Andy got a skyr for himself as well and was very pleased (a huge win, as he’s not much of a breakfast eater). All in all: a fantastic find!

We eventually decided it was time to get a move-on, and drove the short 8 minutes to the Blue Lagoon (which we had already passed on the way) in the drizzling rain. We found parking, grabbed our necessities, and -about 20 minutes early - started our walk in.

The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by stacks of black rocks, through which the long entrance path weaves. It’s very surreal to walk between these rocks, dressed for cold and rainy elements, bracing yourself against the wind, yet carrying your swimsuit and flip-flops. But such is the Icelandic tradition - enjoying all manner of pools and hot springs regardless of weather or season! 

The warm waters of the Blue Lagoon began as a byproduct of the next-door geothermal power station: “Svartsengi.” As the story goes: In the 1980s, local residents began bathing in these murky powder-blue pools of water and discovered their healing properties for psoriasis! Research ensued and found that the naturally occurring silica, algae, and minerals in the geothermal seawater were an effective treatment for chronic skin conditions. Thus, the Blue Lagoon skin-care line, spa, hotel, and restaurant were born as a happy accidental side-project of the power plant. But the unique bathing experience remains the top attraction!

Today the lagoon has been expanded significantly, with architecture matching the surrounding volcanic terrain. Even the most basic ticket includes a towel, a mud mask, a drink in the lagoon, saunas, as well as unlimited soaking time. It’s the perfect first Icelandic activity, as it’s only 20 minutes from the airport!

Once inside, we pulled up our ticket confirmation emails (~$56/person) and were given blue bracelets for purchases — and few other instructions. We went our separate ways to shower (required before entering the lagoon) and don swimwear in the locker rooms. 

Thankfully, you wade into the milky blue water from inside the building (the cool air meeting freshly showered skin indoors is uncomfortable enough, let alone the temperatures outdoors!), leaving flip-flops in a haphazard line along the edge of the water entrance. The water is warmer than body temperature (but not hot), and shallow, as you find your way into the lagoon - first through a humid, echo-y cave, then into the greater, vast body of otherworldly blue water. It’s hard to tell how far it stretches due to the steam rising off of it in all directions, but there’s a map showing the various routes you might float.

Landmarks include a submerged kiosk where you can collect your silica face mask and a bar where you choose a drink from a long list (including juice, beer, wine, and bright blue slushies). There are built-in cement seats along most of the edges, decorative bridges, and a few water spouts (which provide back massages). Also, security guards meander about outside the water, dressed in full-coverage black rain suits.

The floor of the lagoon in most sections feels like the cement of a pool, but certain areas collect — what I assume is — a build-up of silica and other minerals. Your brain expects to feel a rough-sandy ocean floor and gets surprised over and over by a softer, enveloping pillow of squishy white mud. But, floor texture aside, you search for the hottest pockets of water, while cold rain drizzles down your face, and you drink your - in my case - sparkling white wine. And keep questioning where the heck you are and how you got there, periodically snapping photos via a plastic, waterproof phone-case lanyard (a last-minute Amazon purchase) dangling from your neck - proving that it’s all real.

The Blue Lagoon website explains: “Two thousand meters within the earth, ocean water and freshwater converge in a tectonic realm of searing heat and extreme pressure, creating geothermal seawater. Drawn to the surface through geothermal extraction wells, the water emerges enriched with...bioactive elements that endow this unique fluid with its healing, rejuvenating, nourishing abilities.” And it’s hard to think of a more relaxing environment for weary travelers! 

Reykjavik

Once sufficiently nourished and pruney (3 hrs later), we left to explore a bit of the capital city, Reykjavik (a 45 min. drive north). We made it there around 3 p.m. and decided to start our tour with some soup at Seabarin in the Old Harbor.

A large cup of piping hot langoustine soup with sliced baguette cost us about $11.50/person. It was just okay (very thin and skimpy on the langoustine), but the environment was memorable! Felt very local and family-run, with inexplicable decor choices, including a life-size model of the founder in a chair with a “do not sit on me” sign. And it was nice to eat indoors. Though, I do regret not trying Fish and Chips Vagninn, which was closed by the time we got to Reykjavik (fish and chips is a big deal in Iceland! See this video explaining why).

After our late lunch, we were ready to settle in for the night, but still had a few stops to hit before driving to our Airbnb: Braud & Co. Bakery for some bread and sweets to-go, Reykjavik Roasters for a caffeine boost, and Bonus grocery to stock up on breakfast and packed lunch supplies.

Then, we drove to our very cozy cabin in the Middle-of-Nowhere, Iceland, unloaded all our stuff, and drifted off to sleep.